********************************************************************* ITALY, ITALIAN-STYLE! Notes for the Traveler to Italy by Suzanne T. Pidduck Copyright 1995 by Suzanne T. Pidduck All rights reserved ********************************************************************** This is an ASCII version of the 1995 printed edition of her booklet that Suzanne provides all of her clients. The information is an accumulation of her personal notes made during her many trips (she goes at least once each year) during which she stays in various properties and visits the local area. She has also included a few pointers suggested her many satisfied rental clients. This booklet is available for $7.50 in a handy pocket-size format by contacting her directly: RENTALS IN ITALY (& Elsewhere!) Suzanne T. Pidduck 1742 Calle Corva Camarillo, CA 93010 (805) 987-5278 (800) 726-6702 FAX (805) 482-7976 CIS 76413,713 ************************************************************************** ***************************** TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION. . .iii I. BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME1 II. ARRIVING AND DRIVING IN ITALY3 III. HELPFUL HINTS 14 IV. ON THE CITY OF FLORENCE31 V. EXCURSIONS AROUND TUSCANY35 VI. EXCURSIONS AROUND UMBRIA44 VII. EXCURSIONS AROUND THE VENETO47 VIII. THE CINQUE TERRE50 IX. SICILY . . . 53 X. ROME NOTES. . 57 APPENDIX A: STORIES FROM FIRST-TIME RENTERS 58 APPENDIX B: EASY MENUS TO PREPARE64 APPENDIX C: A SAMPLE SHOPPING LIST67 APPENDIX D: NOTES ON ITALIAN REAL ESTATE68 APPENDIX E: PUBLIC TELEPHONE71 APPENDIX F: RAIL MAP OF ITALY72 INTRODUCTION Over the years I have been very fortunate to make many trips to Italy. I first visited as a student, then as a single traveler, later as a mother with three young children, and now I go as an Italian villa rental agent. On each of my trips I have discovered some new facet of Italian life that I had not previously known. As I have made new discoveries, I have collected quite a list of notes that have helped me to organize future trips and to get the most enjoyment out of the stimulating pleasure of travel in a foreign country. This booklet contains some of the gems from my collection. I hope they may be of help to you on your visit to Italy! If you discover something that I have overlooked, please drop me a line so that I can add to my collection of words of wisdom. Very best regards and buon viaggio! Suzanne T. Pidduck Rentals in Italy 1742 Calle Corva Camarillo, CA 93010 805/987-5278 800/726-6702 FAX 805/482-7976 CIS 76413,713 I. BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME PACKING: After almost thirty years of traveling to Italy, I have finally learned how to pack! I now bring just a small shoulder tote and a carry-on bag on wheels. What I can't fit into those two small bags is left at home. What is never left behind, regardless of the season, is an umbrella and/or light-weight raincoat, an all-purpose sweater, very comfortable shoes, an itty-bitty book light, slippers (for the cold marble floors), bug repellant, paperback books (including an English-Italian dictionary and one good guidebook), and one or two basic outfits to mix and match. See also: TO BRING WITH YOU. WEATHER CONSIDERATIONS: It is impossible to predict the weather conditions in Italy; however, it is safe to assume that July and August will be quite warm. Much of Europe vacations in August, so try to avoid Italy at this time due to the heat, crowds and the closure of many shops. May, June, September and October are the best months to visit. The weather is generally mild, without the intense heat of July and August. A word of caution: rain is not uncommon, so come prepared. A light-weight raincoat and silk long underwear are easy to pack and take up very little space. You may never need them, then again, you may be very happy you brought them along! DOCUMENTS: Always make copies of your airline tickets, passport, credit cards, drivers license, etc., and carry them separate (along with a list of traveler's check numbers) from the originals. A few years ago, my mother-in-law was relieved of her billfold and glasses by a group of gypsies in Florence. Unfortunately, she did not have copies of any of her documents, and we spent the next five days visiting the Carabinieri office to file a report, waiting in lines at the American Consulate and the American Express office, and trying to get instant passport photos. Having extra passport photos with you can save precious vacation time. If you are dependent on eyeglasses, consider bringing an extra pair. In addition, bring your medical insurance identity card and a claim form. If you will be driving, obtain an International Driving Permit, which can be obtained at any AAA office. All you will need are two passport photos and a U.S. driver's license. II. ARRIVING AND DRIVING IN ITALY CAR RENTALS: In previous editions I recommended specific car rental companies. However, the car rental situation changes so often with regard to rates, credit card Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage, and the extent of the CDW coverage, that I hesitate to recommend one company over another. As of summer 1995, Auto Europe made a deal to eliminate most of the VAT in Italy for customers who prepay in dollars. Other companies are expected to follow suit. Call me for an update on the latest information. It is increasingly difficult to decline the CDW in Italy. For instance, in 1995 Visa and American Express would not provide insurance coverage for cars rented in Italy. In addi- tion, there is now an obligatory theft protection fee, as well as a 10% airport pick-up charge added to all car rentals. One way to avoid some of these extra fees is to rent your car in another country and then drive it into Italy. However, you must check with the car rental company (and the credit card company if you plan to use your credit card to cover the CDW) about driving the car into Italy. In addition, find out about any drop-off charges. Be sure you list any additional drivers on the rental contract. NOTES OF CAUTION: If you decide while you are in Italy to extend the number of days you want to rent the car (assuming that you prepaid in the U.S.) as the rates you will be charged for the additional days could be as much as double the daily rate you paid in the U.S. When you rent at a weekly rate, be sure to find out the latest time of day that you will be allowed to return the car without penalty. If you pick up a car in a city or town rather than at the airport, check the hours that the office is open where you plan to return the car because they vary greatly from city to city. HELPFUL INFORMATION: On the Compuserve network see the file - Eurocar.txt. FOREIGN CURRENCY EXCHANGE: It is a good idea to obtain $100 or so in Italian lire before you arrive in Italy. This will cover you in case the airport banks or ATM ma- chines are closed or malfunctioning. The rate of exchange in Italy is always better, so don't change more money than you need to before arriving. MILAN/MALPENSA ARRIVAL: I personally prefer to fly into Milan's Malpensa airport rather than Rome's Fiumicino. The Malpensa airport is modern and fairly small, and it is comparatively easy to arrange for a rental car in the Arrival Terminal and then to quickly exit the airport. HOTELS NEAR MALPENSA: When I fly into Malpensa I usually stay the first night at the JET HOTEL about fifteen minutes from the airport in the small town of Gallarate. After a long flight it is a relief to drive just a few minutes down the road to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon by the pool; followed by dinner at LA GOLETTA next door, or LA RUOTA nearby; and then a good night's sleep. By the next morning, I feel alert and ready for the trip to begin. Note: There is a large supermarket just south of the JET HOTEL on the road leading to the airport expressway. It's a great place for shopping after arriving (food and supplies) or prior to departure (olive oil, wine, or specialty canned goods). JET HOTEL Via Tiro a Segno 22 21013 Gallarate, Italy FAX: 011-39-331-772686 TEL: 011-39-331-772100 The following is another hotel where I have stayed that is close to the Malpensa airport: PINETA MOTOR HOTEL Via Sempione 150 21052 Busto Arsizio (VA) FAX: 011-39-331-381220 TEL: 011-39-331-381220 A pleasant alternative is to drive forty-five minutes northwest of Malpensa to CERNOBBIO, on Lake Como. A moderately priced hotel with wonderful views of the lake is: HOTEL ASNIGO Via Noseda 2 22012 Cernobbio FAX: 011-39-31-510062 TEL: 011-39-31-510249 OVERNIGHT IN PARMA: Should you decide to drive further before finding a hotel, I would recommend a stop in PARMA (about two hours south of Malpensa). It is an elegant and sophisticated city which is often overlooked by tourists. Remember, parmigiano cheese and prosciutto both originated in PARMA. The PARK HOTEL STENDHAL is located in a peaceful corner of the historical center. From the hotel it is possible to explore the city on foot. PARK HOTEL STENDHAL 3 Piazzetta Bodoni 43100 Parma, Italy TEL: 011-39-521-208-057 BUS/TRAIN FROM MALPENSA: If you don't want to rent a car, it is possible to take a bus from the airport directly (approximately a one-hour trip) to the Milan train station and there catch a train for further destinations. The bus, located directly outside the Arrival Terminal, leaves for the Central Station in Milan at 8:50 A.M., 9:50 A.M., 10:50 A.M., 11:50 A.M., 12:50 P.M., and other times corresponding to the arrival of inbound flights. It is also possible to take a bus from the same stop to the Terminal at Lampugnano, a transportation center with metro access into and out of Milan. It leaves the airport at twenty minutes after the hour. DRIVING SOUTH OR WEST: To reach Tuscany and the Florence area by car from Milan's Malpensa airport, take the highway in the direction of MILANO. Look for signs that read Autostrada BOLOGNA A1. Continue south on the Autostrada A1 until you reach Florence. If you are traveling in the direction of VENEZIA, follow the signs for Autostrada VENEZIA A4. FOOD: There are several large restaurant/bars that are located just off or over the Autostrada A1. These include PAVESI and RISTORAGIP for southbound travelers, while MOTTA and AUTOGRILL serve northbound travelers. They accept credit cards. For a quick convenient stop during your trip, they can't be beat. Service is cafeteria style, but the selection is broad and the food is good. Note: When stopping for just a drink, you must first buy a ticket at the Tabacchi stand near the bar. After you present the ticket at the bar you will be given your drink. When exiting at most of these autostrada restaurant stops you will be forced to walk through a deli/gift shop first. They sell everything from toys to prosciutto to pastries. ROME/FIUMICINO ARRIVAL: Outside of the International Arrival terminal is a shuttle bus (free of charge) that will take you to the car rental agencies: Avis, Hertz, Budget, Mag- giore, and Europcar. TRAINS INTO ROME: To take the train from the Fiumicino airport into ROME, simply follow the train symbol signs. The nonstop train leaves every 20-30 minutes and will take you to the Roma-Ostiense station at Piazzale dei Partigiani, where you can take a shuttle bus to the Termini station (main station). There are several trains a day, beginning at 7:50 A.M. and ending at 10:25 P.M. If you plan to take the train from the Rome Stazione Termini elsewhere, it is said to be faster to purchase your tickets and get seat reservations from the Tour & Travel office downstairs from the tracks (follow the Metro signs). At the T & T office you avoid long lines and are able to use a credit card to pay for the tickets. TRAIN FROM ROME AIRPORT TO FLORENCE: If you fly ALITALIA to the Rome Fiumicino Airport, there is now a direct train from the airport to Florence. For the return trip, you check your luggage at the Florence train station and take the train to Fiumicino. HOTEL NEAR FIUMICINO: The HOLIDAY INN PARCO DEI MEDICI is probably the closest hotel to the Fiumicino Airport. The hotel operates a free bus service between the airport and the hotel. The bus makes 10 round trips everyday. DRIVING NORTH: To head north from Fiumicino along the west coast of Italy take A12 to SS1 Aurelia. To hook up with the Autostrada del Sole (connecting Rome to Florence and Milan) follow the signs for A1. OVERNIGHT STOPS OUT OF ROME: If you are interested in the Etruscan civilization, then by all means drive to TAR- QUINIA, a small town on the coast that has some of the best Etruscan tomb paintings in Italy. Seven of the tombs are open on a rotating basis and can be visited by the public. The civic museum in town is also definitely worth a visit. The ticket admits you to the museum, as well as the tombs, which are located just outside of town. Another place to stop is the charming town of VITERBO. Not yet over-run by tourists, it is a very much alive Italian city. The San Pellegrino quarter, which is the medieval section, is definitely worth a visit. ORVIETO is another wonderful place to spend the night after an international flight. It is less than two hours from Rome. More on this town can be found in Chapter VI. PISA ARRIVAL: Many people have found that flying into Pisa is very convenient. BRITISH AIR is one airline that flies from the U.S. to Pisa, with a stop in London. From the airport you can take the train (a hundred yards or so from the airport) or pick up a rental car. FLORENCE ARRIVAL: With the addition of a new terminal, the Amerigo Vespucci Airport outside of Florence is now linked to several European cities, among which are London and Paris. As a result it will be easier for U.S. travelers to fly into Florence. The new terminal contains a restaurant, bar, bank and car rental agencies. PAY TOLLS: Be prepared for the Pay Tolls located along the autostradas. For instance, driving south from Malpensa, there is one Pay Toll at the A1 Autostrada turnoff. Be sure to have a supply of lira (at least 25,000 lire) on hand before leaving the airport in order to pay the tolls they tend to be expensive. At some Pay Tolls you must pay a set amount immediately; at others you push a button to receive a ticket, and then you pay at the end when exiting the autostrada. RULES OF THE ROAD: Because driving in Italy can be confusing to the uninitiated, I've assembled some of the most commonly found road symbols and signs. If you can familiarize yourself ahead of time with the following street "language", you will certainly enjoy your first experience on an Italian road much more! ITALIAN STREET SIGNS AND SYMBOLS (by color): Yellow or brown signs Hotels, restaurants, museums, and other tourist points of interest. White signs Train stations (stazione), town center, etc. The symbol for centro (town center) is black concentric circles on a white background. Blue and green signs Road directional signs. The green signs are for the autostrade. While on the autostrade, you will see small signs in the median divider at approximately 1 km intervals giving the distance to exits ahead. You will very seldom see a listing of cities and corresponding distances as would be found in the States. The small signs will also advise you of the distance to the next area di servizio, or gas station. Round blue signs with the letter "P" in the center means parking! These are very important signs to look for and follow, since finding a place to park is always difficult in Italian cities and towns. USEFUL STREET "LANGUAGE": Divieto di Sorpasso a Destra Forbidden to pass on the right. This sign is displayed frequently along the autostradas, and it means that slower traffic must stay to the right to allow overtaking traffic to pass on the left. You can expect other cars to blink their lights and sound their horns if you don't observe this rule. Entrata Entrance Senso Unico One-way street Strada senza uscita Dead-end street Strada deformata Street undergoing repairs Rallentare Slow down Divieto di sosta No parking Uscita Exit Zona pedonale Pedestrian zone Passo carrabile Don't block the driveway Caduta massi Watch for falling rocks Nebbia Fog (can be a real problem during winter) A humorous article by Bill Marsano in Conde Nast TRAVELER magazine twell llustrates the complexities (and fun) of driving in Italy. A couple of excerpts will serve to portray some of the differences you will find "on the Italian road:" "Take notes now. Autostrada driving isn't swanning around on the interstate. Keep your brain in gear at all times, and your reflexes, too. Signs, for example, are few, and road manners are important. The left lane is for passing only. If you are blinked (or worse, honked) over, you have fatto la brutta figura cut a poor figure, the worst sin in Italy. So pass quickly, pull over immediately, and stay out of the way." "... Italian secondary road signs are more conjectural than navigational, in the nature of 'you can't miss it.' You can! Requests for directions get the national response: sempre diritto. It translates as 'straight ahead' and usually means that they haven't a clue but wouldn't dream of disappointing you. On average, it takes three or four sempre dirittos to get, by mad zigzags, more or less where you want to go." III. HELPFUL HINTS RIGHT ATTITUDE: The right frame of mind is very important when living in Italy. While there are many similarities between the American life-style and the Italian, there are also many differences. Hopefully, one of the reasons you decided to travel to Italy was to experience these differences with a spirit of curiosity and a sense of adventure. Certainly, your sojourn will be more fulfilling if you can learn to flow with such things as water and/or drain problems, different opening and closing hours, strikes, insects, gypsies, etc. In other words, if you are only happy with American standards, you are better off visiting Italy from the relative protection of air-conditioned buses and deluxe or first-class hotels. Read on, however, if you consider yourself the adventurous sort who wants to really get to know Italy, the Italian people, and understand the concept of La Dolce Vita! SALUTATIONS: Italians tend to be more formal (particularly in the south) than Americans with regard to titles. For instance, if an Italian is an engineer, you would address him as Ingegnere; a doctor would be Dottore or Dottoressa (feminine). If in doubt, it is safe to use the title Dottore, since it refers to a graduate of the university, as well as a medical doctor, and is a title of respect. First names are not used until you have become good friends, or until you are invited to use them. HOURS: Stores are generally open in the morning until 12:30 or 1:00 P.M. They are then closed until 3:30 or 4:00 P.M., or often later in the case of grocery stores. In the past, museums were frequently open only in the morning; however, there is now movement toward having museums remain open from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. every day except Monday. Beware of Saturday afternoons, Sunday, and all day Monday, when many shops are closed! Grocery stores are generally closed on Saturday afternoon during summer and either Wednesday or Thursday afternoon during the rest of the year, and always on Sundays. Many museums and restaurants are closed on Sunday afternoon and all of Monday. Banks Hours are usually 8:30 A.M. to 1:30 P.M., and then again for one hour in the afternoon (usually 3:00-4:00 P.M.). They are closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. MONEY: Many Italian banks now offer automatic currency exchange machines. These are conveniently located outside banks, in airports, and also in main train stations. The rate of exchange through the machines is the same as changing money directly in the bank. For this reason, I find it more convenient to carry only a limited sum of U.S. cash, rather than traveler's checks, which can mean long lines and lots of paperwork when you want to change them. In order to protect your cash, however, it is prudent to carry the cash in a "money stash" envelope, which is designed to be worn on the body. Another tip: Since the currency machines will not accept paper money larger than $50, bring only $20 and $50 bills. þ In addition to the automatic change machines, you will find the ubiquitous ATM (Automated Teller Machine) along many streets. By using these machines you can easily obtain cash with Visa, MasterCard, American Express, etc. (as long as you have your PIN number) and thereby reduce the amount of cash that you must carry. Plus and Cirrus are both expanding their networks in Italy. As of February 1995 there were 850 ATMs at Banca Nazionale del Lavoro that use the Plus System. In general, the cheapest way to get cash is with a bank ATM card; however, it is much easier to find terminals that accept credit cards. Be aware that it is difficult to replace lost ATM cards abroad. Note: Be sure that your PIN number has just four digits in order to use it at a European bank. Also, find out which is your primary account, since the European ATM will automatically debit your primary account. þ Most restaurants and hotels take major credit cards. The number of Visa and MasterCard signs continues to grow and they are now found in all but the smallest towns or establishments. þ Be sure to keep your bank receipts when you change money. Without these receipts the bank may not allow you to change your extra lira back into dollars prior to your departure from Italy. GROCERY SHOPPING: There are several grocery chains that have stores located throughout Italy. Among these are COOP (and IPERCOOP), MAXI SIDIS and CONAD. Words that will identify a food shop are: Alimentari (food-stuff), Supermercato (what else could they call it?), and Macelleria (butcher shop). þ When driving south from Milan, a very good place to stop for groceries is the IPERCOOP at the Reggio Emilia exit. Go halfway around the traffic circle, and then west. The mall/supermarket complex is located about one mile from the traffic circle. There are public bathrooms located outside of the supermarket! þ At some large chain supermarkets, you are able to use a Visa to pay for groceries. þ At the large supermarkets it is not uncommon to pay for the shopping carts (usually 500) prior to entering the store. þ Hours: The grocery stores generally open each day except Sunday at about 8:20 A.M., and close around 1:00 P.M. in the afternoon. They normally re-open late in the afternoon until 8:00 P.M., except for one afternoon a week when they are closed. þ Fruits and vegetables are often of better quality in the small shops selling only produce than in the larger supermarkets. PLEASE don't handle the fresh produce! In Italy, unlike some other countries, doing so is considered to be very bad manners! The shopkeeper will be happy to get it for you. Just point to your desired selection, or use your dictionary! In some of the larger supermarkets, disposable plastic gloves are provided for bagging the produce. Nearby will be a scale for weighing the produce from which a price sticker will be issued. þ Fresh bread, which is made every night, is snatched up every morning, so it is often unavailable in the afternoon. The best place to buy bread is a bakery (forno or panificio). þ Most grocery stores have delicatessen counters which offer cold cuts, cheese, olives, artichoke hearts, and other antipasti items. A delicious picnic or light dinner can be created very quickly from these items. þ You will find milk in aseptic packaging in every grocery store (Alimentari). It is quite good. Latte Intero whole milk Latte Parzialmente Scremato low-fat milk Latte Scremato non-fat milk. þ Yogurt: The word for non-fat yogurt is magro. Brands to look for that have non-fat yogurt: Danone, Parmalat - Linea Pi£, Vitasnella. In my opinion they are all superior to the non-fat yogurt we find in markets in the U.S. Yomo yogurt is delicious. þ At the chain grocery stores you will probably have to bag your own groceries, and you may be charged for each plastic bag you use. The bags are useful as trash can liners, so don't discard them! Restaurants: lunch hours at restaurants usually begin at 12:30 p.m. and late arriving patrons are frequently turned away after 1:30 or 2:00 p.m. Seating is often limited, and when they are full, that's it until the next round. Since a meal may easily last for an hour, don't be late! Dinner is served beginning at 7:30 P.M., but most Italians don't eat until around 9:00 P.M. in the summer. When you get a table in a restaurant it is yours for as long as you want it, and no one will try to hurry you along. þ Don't feel intimidated by the many courses listed on menus. Order as much or as little as you like. I frequently skip the secondi piatti ( main courses), and just order an antipasto, a primo piatto (pasta or soup), and an insalata mista (mixed salad) or vegetable. Usually the secondi piatti (meat and fish) are the most expensive, so if you order just a main course and a vegetable or an antipasto, a primo, and a contorno (side dish), you will not spend too much. It is considered polite to begin eating as soon as you are served, rather than wait for others to be served. þ Soft drinks are expensive in restaurants, but if you like sparkling water, the acqua minerale con gas is inexpensive and refreshingly good. þ Cappuccino is only drunk in the morning. Ordering it after lunch or dinner will brand you as a tourist! More "socially correct" is to order a caffe macchiato, espresso with a little steamed milk. þ Bread is placed directly on the table (as in France) so don't expect a bread plate. Butter (burro) is not served with the bread and will have to be requested if desired. þ The service charge (servizio) is usually included in the bill (conto), so you are not obligated to leave a tip, although you are certainly free to leave something extra for good service. þ Keep an eye out for a sticker in restaurant windows that depicts a knight on horseback with a large fork under his arm and the words Decalogo dei Cavalieri della Buona Tavola (Knights of the Good Table). This symbol marks a group of restaurants that have agreed to certain principles such as: Dining is to be a pleasurable experience; a clear menu with accurate prices is to be provided; diners should be able to order what they want without feeling embarrassed or intimidated; no cover charge will be charged. ITALIAN (EUROPEAN) COFFEE MAKER: The Italians make their coffee in small quantities using an espresso grind and a multi-sided pressure vessel that consists of two sections that are screwed together. These coffee makers come in a variety of sizes and at least one will be found in every kitchen. You make the coffee by filling the basket in the top section with the finely ground coffee and filling the bottom section with water to just below the basket. Then screw the two sections together tightly so they will not leak under pressure. Place the entire unit directly on the burner and heat until the water boils. Just when you hear it stop boiling, remove the maker from the fire and pour your coffee! GARBAGE: Trash and garbage is placed in the nearest big trash container that you will frequently see along the roads and streets. Your plastic grocery bags from the grocery stores make handy trash bags, so don't throw them away! Recycling is practiced throughout Italy and you will see round-topped green containers for glass (vetro) and yellow ones for clean paper and cardboard (carta). WATER / PLUMBING / ELECTRICITY: Remember that Italy is old, therefore, the water and drain pipes may be old, as well. Water pressure can vary, depending upon the time of day, your location, and the quantity of water available. þ Water conservation is important, particularly in the countryside. þ Water heaters tend to be smaller than those found in the U.S., and electricity is certainly much more expensive! This means that you may not have as much hot water as you are used to. Try adjusting your daily schedule to accommodate the system. þ Sometimes you may find that the hot (C for caldo) and cold (F for freddo) water is opposite from that marked on the controls. þ It is not uncommon to experience clogged or "lazy" drains. Don't be alarmed. Try adjusting your water usage, but if the problem persists, question the landlord or his agent. They are usually most apologetic and try to be helpful, but Italy is Italy! þ Electricity is expensive in Italy, and you will notice rather low wattage light bulbs in all of the homes, but remember, it is 220-volts. You will probably find that the lack of good lighting is the norm, rather than the exception. Also, be aware that it may be impossible to run two major appliances at the same time, and if you do, it may trip a circuit breaker. Proceed with caution, and by all means, turn off the lights when you leave a room! HEATING: Heating charges are extra and are never included in the rental price of a property. Fuel for heating is very expensive, and the law on the use of central heating is restrictive in the interest of energy conservation. Generally speaking, no heating is allowed from mid-April until the first of November, although, this can vary. During the spring and fall (and sometimes even in June) it is possible to have quite low temperatures, as well as rain. My word of advice is to come prepared! If your rental property has a working fireplace, you will most likely be required to make a special request and pay for firewood. BEDS: Generally speaking, the quality and firmness of Italian beds is not up to American standards. This is not always the case, but it's a good idea be prepared for beds that may not as comfortable as what you have at home. There are no king or queen-size beds in Italian homes; instead, you will find a matrimoniale bed, which is similar in size to a queen, but slightly shorter in length. Frequently, you will find that this bed is composed of two single beds shoved together. In addition to single beds and double beds, which more or less correspond (but mainly less!) in size to U.S. beds, there is also a "French bed", which is midway in size. Europeans seem to feel that the "French bed" is acceptable for two people; however, many Americans might disagree! PUBLIC BATHROOMS: First of all, public bathrooms are not so widely found. It often takes a little ingenuity and patience to locate them in Italy. Men, of course, have a much easier time than women! Keep in mind the following places as likely locations when in need: restaurants, large cafes and bars, museums, some gas stations, and train stations. þ There is a real variety of toilet facilities to be found, from first-class American Standard toilets to what are not much more than porcelain holes in the floor, so prepare yourself! þ Always carry tissues with you for the times (frequent!) when there is no toilet paper to be found. þ In airports, train stations, or large chain cafeterias (such as Pavesi and Agip) you will find bathroom attendants on hand to give you toilet paper (sometimes), clean the facilities, and to take your tip when you leave. Two hundred to five hundred lire is an acceptable amount to leave. þ Be forewarned: it is not unusual for the public bathrooms to be unisex, so don't be shocked by a lack of modesty in behavior or facilities. þ Signore means women, and Signori means men. BUYING GAS: Some gas stations will take credit cards; however the practice varies, so always have cash on hand. Ask for mi faccia il pieno if you want to fill the tank. Most gas stations are only full service, and they will check the oil and wash the windows if you take the time to ask them. Controllare l'olio means "check the oil". TELEPHONES: By all means bring your AT&T, Sprint, and MCI calling cards for international calls, BUT be prepared for some areas where the international access numbers have been blocked by the local telephone companies. The international access numbers are: Sprint - 172-1877; AT&T - 172-1011; MCI - 172-1022. If you are not able to use the access numbers, you can dial 170 to reach an Italian operator (this can take repeated efforts, so you must be patient). When calling from pay phones insert a 200 lire coin or a gettone prior to dialing. It is also possible to place direct overseas calls by dialing 001 + the area code and number. Be aware that International calls from Italy are expensive! þ To confirm flights home from Italy, save yourself the hassle of trying to reach the airline offices in Italy (which are frequently closed, out to lunch, or just don't answer) by calling the Sprint, AT&T, or MCI access numbers to reach a U.S. operator. Since the U.S. airline reservation offices are open for phone calls around the clock, it is easy to have them confirm your flight home. Just have handy the U.S. telephone number for the airline. Usually, the calling card operators will not take an 800 number, so it's wise to have both numbers with you. þ More and more public telephones that use calling cards (carta telefonica or scheda, which can be purchased in train stations, airports, post offices, news stands, and Tabacchi) are springing up around cities and towns. These cards are much more convenient to use than gettoni, which are the heavy brass tokens purchased in bars, news stands, or Tabacchi for insertion into the older style of public tele- phone. The calling cards are sold in denominations of 5,000 and 10,000 lire. In train stations and airports the cards can be obtained from large orange-colored automatic vending machines, which are usually located near the telephones. The telephone automatically deducts the amount of the call from your card. You can use the card again, as long as you haven't used up the credit. The lire that you have remaining are indicated on the telephone. þ Some telephones will take a variety of credit cards, such as MasterCard, Visa, and American Express. þ Standard payphones accept 100, 200, and 500 lire coins, as well as telephone tokens (gettoni). When more gettoni or coins are required, you will hear a beep, at which time you must insert them very quickly. Unused tokens will be returned to you if you push the return button. þ If, when making international calls, you cannot find a telephone that uses a carta telefonica, find a telephone in a bar which is equipped with a telephone meter; go to the main post office; or go to an office operated by SIP. The latter are located in major cities and towns. þ Cellular phones seem to be even more prevalent in Italy than in the U.S. It is common to find them pressed to ears in the street, in restaurants and bars, or at the beach. Apparently, it is comparatively easy to rent a telefonia mobile, by stopping at a SIP office (or an office displaying a Autotelefoni SIP sign) in the main towns and cities. Or you can arrange for the rental of a cellular phone from the U.S., by contacting The Parker Company, Ltd., the U.S. representative for Europe on Line (Telephone: 617-596-8282). The rates for 1995 were $14.00 per day, plus charges for outgoing calls. I recently rented a phone through this company, and I would be happy to share the details of my experience with you. þ When calling within Italy, insert a "0" before the city code. MAIL/STAMPS: Mail delivery in Italy is unreliable and erratic. It can take from seven days to six weeks to receive mail from Italy. Postage may be purchased either at Tabacchi shops or directly at the post office. Post offices are generally open from 8:30 to 2:00 P.M. On Saturday and the last day of the month they close at 12:00 P.M. The main post offices in large cities and in airports are open 24 hours a day for registered mail and telegram services. TRAINS / BUSES: Remember, as you read the train and bus schedules, that the 24-hour clock is used. þ You will sometimes find a special counter at the train stations for credit card ticket payments. The good news is that you will rarely find a line at these windows; the bad news is that they are frequently closed! þ It is worthwhile to make a seat reservation for any long train trip. Go to the station two days before your trip to reserve seats. There is a small charge for this, but it assures that on a crowded train your group will be able to sit together. þ Most bus headquarters are located at or near the train stations. The bus schedules can usually be obtained for each bus there. They can be quite useful for mapping your routes. þ Bus tickets are valid for a duration of time, regardless of destination, within the metropolitan area. There is a ticket box mounted to a post near the rear of the bus which places a date and time stamp on your ticket stub. You are supposed to validate your ticket when you start your trip. The Italians, however, are very blas‚ about using the machines, because the officials who check tickets are rarely in evidence. þ The proper bus etiquette is to enter the bus at the rear and exit in the middle. Signal for your stop by pushing a button near the exit before you want to get off (another reason for obtaining a bus schedule). þ Bus tickets can be purchased from a ticket machine near the main stops, at a Tabacchi, newspaper kiosk, or from many bars. þ Pay careful attention to the bus numbers; some have suffixes added to the numbers. For example, bus 25A has a different destination from bus 25. STRIKES: It's best to adjust your mental attitude on the subject of strikes before going to Italy. They occur frequently and suddenly. During a recent trip we encountered a train strike, a gasoline delivery strike, and an airport strike of some type. If you have a definite schedule to follow, be sure to have a Plan B or be ready to get creative, in case Plan A is disrupted due to a strike. VANDALISM/THEFT: When walking the streets of any city it is always a good idea to guard your pockets, purse and camera. The cities of Italy are no exception. They are not at all unsafe, but it is better to be "safe than sorry!" Pay particularly close attention in crowded places quiet hands that might remove your camera or purse contents or make a quick snatch as you are exiting a taxi. Don't wear valuables or carry items that might make you a target of opportunity. If you have a rental car, never leave items in the body of the car that would identify you as tourists (maps, guidebooks, cameras, suitcases, etc.). You might consider it cheap insurance to purchase an Italian newspaper to be left clearly visible in your car! Money belts and undergarment pouches are worthwhile to bring with you. As for myself, I usually feel quite comfort- able about leaving my airline tickets, credit cards, etc. at my countryside rental property during my daily excursions out and about. In a fanny pack or shoulder purse (that I wear across my body) I take with me only enough cash and/or a credit card for the day. This system has worked well for me for the past twelve years. TO BRING WITH YOU: After twelve years of renting properties in Italy, I've compiled a list of useful things to bring along: kitchen and scrub sponge, baggies, ziplock bags, rubber bands, matches, extra batteries, flashlight, an emergency roll of toilet paper, tissues, Spray n' Wash stick, jackknife/screwdriver, corkscrew, some clothes hangers, pocket calculator, small cassette or CD player and tapes or CDS, string bag, money belt. If traveling with children you might bring some powdered drink mix to stir into regular or sparkling water. It sure beats the cost of bottled drinks, and it's easy to transport! Another very useful thing to bring with you is an "itty bitty book light". It is inexpensive, lightweight, and solves the problem of trying to read under dim Italian light bulbs. LAUNDRY / CLEANING: Look for the sign "TINTORIA" for cleaning and pressing, and "LAVANDERIA" for laundry. Laundromats are difficult to find in Italy; however, there is a "Wash & Dry Lavarapido" in Florence, next to 45 Via dei Servi, just south of the Piazza S.S. Annunziata. INSECTS: * BUG ALERT * BUG ALERT* !!! There are lots of mosquitos and other flying objects in Italy during the warm months, and very few houses have any screens. Come prepared! The stores offer various devices to keep them away, but they are of varying efficacy. One device that I can recommend is the antizanzare elettrico, a small inexpensive appliance into which is inserted a pias- trine, small treated tablets, prior to plugging into an outlet. One brand to look for is BAYGON. These devices can be found in most grocery stores. I receive dozens of compla- ints about the insects every year, so please bring repellents with you, or plan to purchase some type of protection when you arrive. You might also consider bringing some mosquito nets and masking tape for the beds or windows. ENGLISH YELLOW PAGES: It is possible to order a copy of the English Yellow Pages, which lists English-speaking doctors, lawyers, accountants, plumbers, cleaners, etc., in several Italian cities. To order by mail, send a payment of 15,000 to: English Yellow Pages, Via XX Settembre 5, 00187 Roma, Italy. It is also available in Italy at English/American bookstores in the major cities. For a list of these stores, FAX the company: 011-39-6-4744509. GUIDEBOOKS / MAPS: I highly recommend the CAD- OGAN guides to Italy. Written by Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls (CADOGAN BOOKS, Ltd.), they are very well organized and researched. There are seven guides, covering all of Italy. I am the most familiar with the TUS- CANY, UMBRIA and the NORTHEAST ITALY guides, both of which are excellent. Otherwise, the FROMMER'S COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO ITALY, or the MICHELIN GREEN GUIDE are both reliable guide books. þ The best place to buy maps in Italy is in a book store. þ For both guidebooks and maps purchased in the U.S. there are now many good travel book stores. Two respected companies that distribute catalogs from which you can order are: BOOK PASSAGE (800) 321-9785, and FORSYTH TRAVEL LIBRARY (800) 367-7984. Both carry a wide and complete inventory of guidebooks and maps for the entire world. TRAVEL SUPPLIES: For travel supplies of every kind, from travel pillows to luggage, I recommend MAGELLAN'S. For a free catalog call: 800/962-4943. IV. ON THE CITY OF FLORENCE GUIDE BOOK: Florence-Walks, by Anne Holler, is a wonderful guide for walking tours of this enchanting city. PARKING: This has always been a problem in Florence and is increasingly difficult, but here are three supervised car parks that are convenient: Piazza Stazione (this handy underground parking in front of the train station is a very central location), Fortezza da Basso and Piazza Carmine (located south of the river). A few words of warning to those who choose to park on the street: the streets are washed each week. If your car is left on the street when it is sched- uled to be washed, your car will be towed away and you will have to pay a stiff fee to release it from the impound yard! Parking in Florence appears to be quite chaotic and free form, but despite these appearances, there is a system and its rules are sometimes rigorously enforced. If you have a choice between driving into Florence and taking a train from a nearby town, by all means choose the train. Florence is an easy city to walk around. Many of the streets in the center are closed to auto traffic during the day, and the train station is close to the center. FAVORITE PLACES: Some favorite places of mine which are listed in the guidebooks, but which I believe deserve special attention are the following: þ MUSEO DI STORIA DELLA SCIENZA (Museum of the History of Science) is a fascinating museum for children as well as adults, which is located very close to the UFFIZI along the Arno. It includes many of the original experimental devices used by Galileo. þ BRANCACCI CHAPEL In the CHURCH OF THE CARMINE newly restored frescos by Masaccio, which really should be seen! þ BARGELLO MUSEUM A museum of important renaissance sculpture. It is one of my family's favorites. þ MUSEO SAN MARCO See the cells painted by Fra Angelico. SPECIAL TREAT: Try to visit the CORRIDOIO VASARI- ANO. This is an old passage that connects the UFFIZI to the PALAZZO PITTI by a corridor that extends across the river through the PONTE VECCHIO at the second story level. It houses room after room of important paintings that are seldom seen by the public. A special reservation must be made at the UFFIZI ticket office at least two days in advance. The telephone number: 283-044. SHOPS: I won't be so presumptuous as to make a list of shops to visit, but one place not to miss is the OFFICINA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA (Via della Scala). Not only is the physical building very beautiful and imposing, but this pharmacy sells perfumes, soaps, colognes, etc., that have been made for centuries using the same recipes. It's a wonderful place to buy unique gifts as well as to rub shoulders with the Florentine aristocracy who shop there. RESTAURANTS: There are so many good restaurants in Florence, that I struggle to choose a few favorites, but here they are: þ RISTORANTE ENOTECA (87 Via Ghibellina, (055)242-777) is considered one of the top restaurants in Florence. Expensive. þ PAOLI (12r Via dei Tavolini, (055)216-215), with its beautiful interior, is an appropriate restaurant for a special occasion. If you like spicy pasta, try the penne alla car- retiera. Paoli's version is the best I've ever had! þ MAMMA GINA (Borgo San Jacopo) serves very good food at reasonable prices. It is located on the south side of the Arno just across the Ponte Vecchio. Italian family clientele. þ LA SOSTANZA (Via del Porcellana 25/r, (055)212-691) serves good Tuscan food in a very casual setting. Popular with Florentines, as well as tourists. CENTRAL MARKET: The CENTRAL MARKET is open everyday except Sunday, from 7:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m., and Saturday from 4:30 to 7:30 p.m.. It is really worth a visit (or several), particularly if you plan to do any cooking during your stay. Just take a backpack with you so that you can stow your produce. The market is located in the historical center, very near the San Lorenzo church. MUSIC: The MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO runs throughout May and June in Florence, featuring operas, ballets, and concerts. For further information, call or fax the Biglietteria Teatro Comunale: Tel. 011-39-55-27791 or 211158; Fax 011-39-55-2396954. Or contact the Box Office: Tel. 011-39-55-210804; Fax 011-39-55-213112. EVENTS IN FLORENCE & TUSCANY: Published in English and available for purchase in Florence, "Events" is published six times a year. It is a valuable resource for the visitor to Tuscany. Contact: Events, Lungarno Corsini, 6, 50123 Firenze, Italy. Tel./Fax: 055-215613 V. EXCURSIONS AROUND TUSCANY The region of Tuscany affords an endless opportunity to visit historical and beautiful locations. The following are some of my favorite places that serve as destinations when I want something beyond the hustle and bustle of Florence. FIESOLE: Take the bus #7 (from the train station or Piazza San Marco) to FIESOLE. It's a short 25-minute trip and it's lovely. FIESOLE is a charming town filled with interesting places to visit (Archeological Zone), invigorating walks (Via S. Francesco to the Monastero di San Francesco, or along the hill behind the Palazzo Pretorio) and fun restaurants. The PIZZERIA ETRUSCA in the town square makes wonderful pizza! þ Halfway up the hill to Fiesole (on bus #7, the stop is San Domenico) is the church of San Domenico, near which is a very good pizzeria, RISTORANTE SAN DOMENICO. It is a favorite spot for the locals to meet, so you need to get there early in order to secure a table. The food is very good, and it is a great place to escape the tourists! þ If you are in the area in July or August, try to get tickets for a performance (concerts, dance and movies) in the Roman Amphitheatre in FIESOLE. The ESTATE FIE- SOLANA runs through July and August. Tel: 011-39-55-219851 Fax: 011-39-55-219853 LUCCA: An excellent choice for a half-day visit, LUCCA is an old walled city that allows no vehicles into the center of town. Drive through one of the gates in the wall to the central parking area and then strike out on foot. It's a beautiful little city to explore. I recommend the restaurant: BUCA DI SANT'ANTONIO, Via della Cervia 1 (0583-55-948). A short drive from town in PIEVE S. STEFANO, is VIPORE, a fine restaurant recommended very highly by cli- ents. SAN GIMIGNANO: This is a favorite place I visit on every trip to Italy. The view from it's fabled towers, built by noble families for their mutual protection, is tremendous. Aside from the COLLEGIATA, don't miss the frescoes by Gozzoli in the CHIESA DI SANT'AGOSTINO. LE TERRAZZE (in LA CISTERNA hotel) is a very good restaurant (0577-940-328) with a spectacular view. It is closed Wednesday. Unfortunately, SAN GIMIGNANO is attracting greater crowds of tourists. While I still love it, the tourist-avoiding traveler might consider VINCI, instead. VINCI: This lovely little town, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci, is located west of Florence and is surrounded by hills of olives and vines. You won't find many tourists here, thank goodness, but you will find a fascinating museum (open daily) filled with the drawings and accompanying models of Leonardo. The models of his inventions are well displayed, well lit, and there is an English description of each one next to the Italian. The museum is definitely worth a visit, and children will enjoy it, too. SIENA: Another favorite city, SIENA really comes alive around the time of its famous no-holds-barred horse race, known as the PALIO (July 2 and August 16). This medieval horse race is truly an event to experience, and it is worth the expense to purchase good seats, but you must do this early because the event is always sold out. For a list of merchants or organizations who sell tickets, contact the AZIENDA AUTONOMA DI TURISMO, Piazza del Campo 56, 53100 SIENA, ITALY. The telephone number is: 011-39-577-280-551. The fax is: 011-39-577-270-676. If you have difficulty obtaining a list of merchants to contact, call me. I have four names you can try. You can also join the masses standing in the center of the square free of charge. In order to see the parade and race, you will have to secure a spot along the track, which requires a very early arrival at the Piazza del Campo. Otherwise, you may be overcome by claustrophobia and the fear of being trampled by excited Sienese. þ SIENA PARCHEGGIO: There is a new public parking garage in the center of SIENA. Take the San Marco exit off the Superstrada, and follow the signs for Siena Parcheggio (blue "P" sign). The garage is located in the area of the university, and it is a very short walk to the Piazza del Campo. I highly recommend using this garage! þ AL MANGIA (0577-281-121) on the Piazza del Campo, serves great food in a wonderful setting. It is a good place to have lunch and then watch the people stroll by as you linger over a second espresso. Another top restaurant is AL MARSILI (3 Via del Castoro (0577-47154) which features really fantastic service in a beautifully decorated room with brick alcoves. They serve the best grilled porcini mush- rooms I have ever eaten! For wine lovers, the best place to buy the wine of the region is the government-sponsored enoteca in the city. CHIANTI: The drive through the CHIANTI region (the area between FLORENCE and SIENA) on the Via Chiantigiana, is beautiful, peaceful, and not over-crowded by tourists. þ In CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI, stop at ALBERGACCIO DI CASTELLINA for a gourmet lunch or dinner (0577-741042). Closed Monday. þ In RADDA IN CHIANTI, PETROIO (VIGNALE) is a good choice for a sample of Tuscan home cooking. þ For a special treat, locate on a detailed map of Tuscany (near RADDA) the BADIA A COLTIBUONO. This is an old abbey that is now a major winery. Treat yourself to a drive there for lunch (the restaurant is located in an outbuilding near the old abbey) and an after-lunch walk in the woods. On the way back you can buy the excellent Badia a Colti- buono Chianti at the small shop near the entry road. þ Another stop for good food in the same area is IL VESCOVINO in PANZANO (midway between GREVE, CASTELLINA, and RADDA). þ A very good restaurant in the Chianti that is a member of Jeunes Restaurateurs d' Europe (Young Restaurateurs of Europe) is IL SALOTTO DEL CHIANTI in MERCATALE VAL DI PESA. I recently had dinner there, and I was very impressed by the quality of the food and the artistry of the presentation. þ Yet another treat is just off the Superstrada to SIENA in the little walled town of MONTERRIGIONI, This is also a very picturesque spot to visit or spend the night and a wonderful place for lunch or dinner. Located in the piazza, IL POZZO serves delicious regional dishes. I'm still trying to duplicate their Zuppa di Fagioli! Just across the lane is another delightful restaurant, which has become quite upscale since the construction of the nearby four-star HOTEL MONTERIGGIONI (lovely). Fax: 0577-305011 Tel: 0577-305009 þ BADIA A PASSIGNANO is a tiny hamlet located near PANZANO, with a restaurant and an old badia, which presents concerts during the late spring and summer. þ Strade Bianche (white roads) is the Italian term for unpaved roads and in the CHIANTI region there are many to be found! If you are not in a hurry and you are looking for beautiful countryside, take some of the strade bianche, but be advised that they can be bumpy and dusty! OTHER COUNTRYSIDE DESTINATIONS: For a beautiful drive out of Florence and away from the tourist buses, take the road to SETTIGNANO, then go on to PONTASSIEVE, next to VALLOMBROSA, and finally to POPPI. There is a wonderful and inexpensive ristorante in VALLOMBROSA called PENSIONI MEDICI. They serve a good country meal (pasta, grilled chicken, wine, coffee) for a reasonable price. There is also a charming ristorante near the castello on the top of the hill in the town of POPPI. þ Another nice drive is to go to BORGO SAN LORENZO, to FAENZA (where the beautiful pottery is made) to FORLI, to PONTASSIEVE, and back to FLORENCE. In the old section of BORGO SAN LORENZO there is an inexpensive but charming restaurant, GLI ARTISTI, which serves a delicious baked and stuffed tomato, marinated eggplant, and homemade pastas. A lovely town very nearby is SCARPERIA. þ A short bus (#25A) or car ride north from FLORENCE will take you to PRATOLINO and the PARK VILLA DEMI- DOFF. The little town of PRATOLINO is not exciting, but there is a very good restaurant in town, ZOCCHI, whose dining room looks out onto the park. The real reason, however, for traveling up the hill to PRATOLINO is to escape the heat and crowds of FLORENCE and spend the afternoon in the PARK VILLA DEMIDOFF, a beautiful old park which dates back to the 1500's. Giambologna's massive sculpted Appennino is worth seeing. The park is large and well-maintained, with charming paths and meadows of grass. There are frequent concerts performed there, and there is also a bar located behind the villa that serves drinks and snacks. The park is only open Friday thru Sunday. CORTONA: A beautiful hill town close to Arezzo and Lake Trasimeno, CORTONA should be visited. It has a magnificent setting with views to the south of the lake and beyond. To see the town well, be prepared to hike up to the Chiesa di Santa Margherita, and then down to the Piazza della Re- pubblica and the Piazza del Duomo. LA LOGGETTA is a lovely restaurant on the main piazza. The dishes are presented with artistry, and the food is very good. SOUTHERN TUSCANY: Located south of Siena, there are several hill towns that deserve to be visited: MONTE- PULCIANO, MONTALCINO, PIENZA, CHIUSI. þ If you don't mind a little exercise, park you car in the car park as you enter MONTEPULCIANO, and walk up the hill to the PIAZZA GRANDE. It's a real hike! The town is known for its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a famous red wine. For lunch I recommend the restaurant LA GROTTA, which is located directly across from the beautiful San Biagio church by Antonio da Sangallo at the foot of the hill. Another good place for lunch is LA CHIUSA, located in MONTEFOLLONICO, a pretty village very near MONTEPULCIANO. þ MONTALCINO is another nice hill town to explore. It is also worthwhile to visit the beautiful Romanesque church of Sant' Antimo near MONTALCINO. If you are fortunate (as I was once) to arrive during a service when the church resonates with Gregorian chants, you are in for a special treat. The interior of the church is made of white travertine and alabaster. þ PIENZA is a lovely little town, which has been discovered by tourists (including Italian) only in the past few years. The main street is filled with shops selling cheese, sausages, honey and preserves, health foods, antiques, ceramics, and leather-work. IL PRATO, a restaurant on Piazza Dante, serves good local dishes, such as Fontina alla Griglia (grilled fontina cheese served with a fresh tomato sauce delicious!). þ CHIUSI has a wonderful archaeological museum as well as some Etruscan painted tombs nearby. It is a pretty drive to LAGO DI CHIUSI, just a few kilometers northeast of Chiusi. LA FATTORIA is a charming ivy covered hotel and restaurant with good food and views of the lake. If you've ever wanted to try eel (a specialty of the area), this is a good place to do it. SOUTHERN TUSCAN COAST: If you are after the Italian beach life, but want to avoid the crowds, head down (but not in August!) the southern Tuscan coast to ANSEDONIA, ORBETELL0 and MONTE ARGENTARIO. There is not much left of ancient ANSEDONIA, although up a steep hill you can find Roman ruins of the old city of COSA. An- sedonia today is composed of a small hotel and restaurant and hillsides of secluded villas overlooking the sea. The town of ORBETELLO is a charming town, with good places to eat and a nice downtown area closed off to cars. It is an agreeable spot for an evening passeggiata (stroll). Continuing on the causeway from Orbetello to MONTE ARG- ENTARIO, you can go south to the resort town of PORTO ERCOLE, or north to PORTO SANTO STEFANO, both elegant beach resorts. The very exclusive and expensive hotel, Il Pelicano, is located near Porto Ercole. þ The very delightful village of CAPALBIO is located just six kilometers inland, and is an easy drive for lunch or dinner or a stroll up its winding streets. þ Calling itself the first city in Italy, SATURNIA, is a spa town within easy reach of Ansedonia. Pre-Etruscan fragments have been discovered in the area, but the design of the present town dates from the Roman era. If you want an adventure, park your car along the road before you reach the town (if you are coming from the south), and follow the bathers (and the sulphur smell) down the dirt road to the "public spa". There are no changing rooms, so be prepared! You will meet several nationalities splashing and swimming in the hot sulphur water. RISTORANTE I DUE CIPPI is a very good restaurant in town. It may look rather ordinary outside, but the decor is lovely, and the menu is interesting. þ Other Etruscan ruins and tombs are nearby. Close to SOVANA is an Etruscan necropolis. The walls of PITIGLIANO are of Etruscan origin, and wonderful painted tombs can be visited at TARQUINIA and CERVETERI (although they are both in the region of Lazio, rather than Tuscany!). þ Nature lovers will enjoy visiting the MONTI DELL'UCCELLINA park, along the MAREMMA coast. VI. EXCURSIONS AROUND UMBRIA PERUGIA: Just as Florence is special to Tuscany, PERUGIA is an Umbrian jewel. It is cosmopolitan, filled with old treasures, and a wonderful city to explore on foot. The evening passeggiata, when everyone descends upon the main square to stroll and be seen, is a wonderful spectacle. After partaking in the passaggiata, go to LA TAVERNA, on Via delle Streghe, for a delicious meal. We were very fortunate to meet the owner, Claudio Brugalosi, who treated us to a gelato at the best place in town (or so he claimed!). If you get a chance to eat at his restaurant, be sure to say "Ciao" from me! For the jazz lover, the well-known UM- BRIA JAZZ FESTIVAL in PERUGIA takes place in July. Tel: 011-39-75-5732432 Fax: 011-39-75-5727614 ASSISI: Everyone seems to know about ASSISI, and the tour buses attest to that fact! It is worth a visit, however, if only to see the frescoes by GIOTTO. Besides, if you can overlook the crowds, it is still a charming town. ORVIETO: The town of ORVIETO is located midway between Florence and Rome (about two hours from each). It is a beautiful town perched on a pedestal of volcanic tufa. Besides the setting, the cathedral, one of Italy's greatest, is worth the trip. Also worthy is a stop at LA GROTTA DEL FUNARO (Via Ripa Serancia 41 Closed Mondays), a restaurant tucked in the corner of the tufa rock at the edge of town. I highly recommend ordering the antipasti misti to start the meal it's a wonderful assortment of salads, olives, marinated eggplant, artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, etc. TODI: Another pretty hill town to visit, TODI is filled with narrow, winding streets and stairs. It also has beautiful vistas of the surrounding countryside. For wonderful food in a awe-inspiring setting, go to L'UMBRIA. The food and service is good; the prices are moderate. It is located under the arches off the Piazza del Popolo. GUBBIO: GUBBIO is really spectacular and is worth the drive. As you approach the town you are struck by the parallel rows of stone buildings that are built into the hill. The view from the beautiful Piazza della Signoria is breathtaking. GUBBIO is the town (along with DERUTA) in which to purchase hand-painted ceramics from shops that line the Via dei Consoli, the main street. For a gourmet lunch, head to FORNACE DI MASTRO GIORGIO on the street of the same name (closed Monday). Order either the Menu Turistico or Menu Degustazione for a true culinary experience (but be prepared for the expense!). Another good restaurant recommended to me by clients is TA- VERNA DEL LUPO, ON Via Ansidei. RISTORANTE PIZZERIA SAN FRANCESCO E IL LUPO on Via Cairoli is less expensive, and it serves good pizzas and antipasti. DERUTA: A charming small town with parking outside the gates, DERUTA is the place to buy ceramics. You will probably lose your mind trying to decide which shop has the best selection! One nice shop is U. GRAZIA on Via Tiberina 181. While you are trying to make up your mind which ceramics to buy, stop at LA FONTANNINA for lunch. It has a nice outside patio with a large tree for shade and a beautiful view of the valley. SPELLO: After visiting ASSISI, head southeast to SPELLO, its smaller and more intimate twin. It's a charming little town with winding streets and lovely vistas. It also has a wonderful restaurant, IL MOLINO (closed Tuesday), which serves delicious grilled meats, bruschetta, and porcini (when in season). SPOLETO: The FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI is a very well-known music festival held in SPOLETO every summer (mid June to mid July). SPOLETO is a charming town to visit any time, but during the festival it really comes alive. The local cuisine is delicious, as well. For information on the festival call: 011-39-743-220-311. VII. EXCURSIONS AROUND THE VENETO When one thinks of the Veneto, the city of Venice always comes to mind. However, there are many other wonderful towns in the area which are less well-known and less visited by tourists that deserve a visit. I recommend that you find the book, Italian Neighbors, by Tim Parks. This is a fun book written by an Englishman who moved to a small town outside of Verona. It gives a good introduction to the joys and irritants of life as a foreigner in the Veneto region. VERONA: The city of Romeo and Giulietta is graceful, elegant, and sophisticated. The best way to approach the city is to go through the Porta Nuova and then find a parking place (there is a large parking garage on the right that is quite close to the Piazza Bra. The ancient Arena, which dominates the Piazza Bra, is the scene of innumerable concerts and operas throughout the year. It is worthwhile to pay the admission fee of 6,000 lire to be able to explore the inside and to climb to the top for a view of the piazza. From there you should walk down the Via Mazzini to the Piazza Erbe, another beautiful piazza, and explore medieval VERONA. þ The summer opera season at the Arena runs through July and August. For tickets, write or fax for a schedule and price list: Biglietteria, Ente Arena di Verona, Piazza Bra, 28, 37100 Verona, Italy. The telephone number is: 011-39-45-590-966 or 45-590-726. The fax number is: 011-39-45-590-201. Once you have the schedule, you can send an international money order to the ticket office with your ticket order. þ For an expensive treat, stop at the restaurant, DODICI APOSTOLI, which is near the Piazza Erbe. The restaurant is rather hard to find, since it is located on a tiny square, but the search is worthwhile. The interior is a traditional Renaissance setting with frescoed walls. Order carefully because it is expensive, but be assured, the food and the setting are definitely worth it. (Corticella San Marco 3, tel. 0444-34-827) VICENZA: Like Verona, a part of old VICENZA is blocked off to automobile traffic. Home of Palladio, the famous High Renaissance architect, the city is full of his designs. With your guidebook in hand, walk through the Piazza Signori, across the Ponte San Marco, then back to the Teatro Olim- pico. The old town is small, intimate, and alive with Italians. For lunch or dinner I recommend the TRE VISI at Contra Porti 6 (tel. 0444-238-677). The food is delicious, and the ambiance pleasing. MAROSTICA: This is the town of the human chess game (Partita a Scacchi) that is staged every two years (even years in September) in the main piazza. MAROSTICA is a charming medieval town, complete with old walls and a castle atop the hill (worth a hike for the views). A great place for lunch is PIZZERIA-TRATTORIA ALL'ALFIERE (Piazza Castello 16, on the main piazza). If you are there on Sunday, be sure to visit the museum in the castle on the square where costumes used in the chess match are on display. ASOLO: On the day that you drive to the pretty town of ASOLO, also be sure to visit (or at least drive through) CASTELFRANCO VENETO, CITTADELLA and BASSANO DEL GRAPPA. ASOLO is perched on a hill and is every bit as picturesque as the books say. For lunch I recommend HOSTERIA CA' DERTON (Piazza D'Annunzio 11, tel. 0423-52-730). If porcini is in season, do order the porcini alla griglia con polenta (grilled porcini mushrooms with polenta). A memorable dish! LAKE GARDA: For a spectacular drive take the road around the lake, beginning at the north end. You will be amazed at the changes in the landscape as well as the character of the towns as you drive north to south. The east side of the lake is said to be slower paced and less expensive than the west side. My husband and I managed a night at the ALBERGO GARDESANA (tel. 045-722-5411, fax 045-722-5771), an attractive and inexpensive hotel right on the port at TORRI DEL BENACO, a pretty resort town on the east side of the lake. VIII. THE CINQUE TERRE Whenever I read magazine or newspaper articles about the "untouched" CINQUE TERRE, I wonder how long this isolated strip of Italian coastline can remain unknown by the hoards of tourists pouring into Italy. It is a wonderful hike along the narrow trails that connect the five towns of MONTEROSSO, VERNAZZA, MANAROLA, CORNIGLIA, and RIOMAGGIORE. Each town offers the opportunity to enjoy the local cuisine and wine. Bring comfortable shoes with good tread (the trails can be slippery in drizzle). WHEN TO GO: Spring and fall are the best times to visit the region. Even then, it is best to avoid the weekends, when many Italians flock to the towns. I was there in mid-October, and despite some occasional drizzle, it was a fine time to hike the trails connecting the towns. There were few tourists, Italian or otherwise. HOW TO GET THERE: If you are driving, look for exit signs for LE CINQUE TERRE on the Autostrada A-12. It is possible to drive to each of the towns; however, be warned that most of the roads are winding, with unpaved sections. It is also important to know that once you arrive in town, finding a parking place can be very difficult, especially during the spring and fall, and impossible during the sum- mer. Avoiding parking hassles is one of the main reasons for traveling by train. There are several (almost hourly) trains a day from both Genoa and La Spezia to each of the towns. The towns themselves are only a few minutes apart by train. Your hotel or pensione should be able to provide a current timetable. There is also boat service between the towns (except for Corniglia) five times a day. HIKING PATHS: The sentieri are the hiking paths that connect the CINQUE TERRE and the two towns of LE- VANTO (north of MONTEROSSO) and PORTO VENERE (south of RIO MAGGIORE). Some of the paths are steep and long, and others are short and fairly level. It is important to check at your hotel or pensione which of the paths are open. NOTE: Two of the footpaths have recently reopened after being closed for several years. WHERE TO STAY: The HOTEL PORTO ROCA, in MONTEROSSO AL MARE (the old section of the town) is the nicest and most expensive hotel in the area (tel. 011-39-187- 817502; fax: 011-39-187-817-692). The rooms on the top floor are small, but they have large private terraces over the sea. Less expensive rooms are available. I did not find the dining room particularly inviting, especially considering the wonderful restaurants nearby. It is important to note: The hotel is quite a hike uphill from the train station or the public parking lot. If you call the hotel from the train station or ring a buzzer at the base of the hill, a minibus will come pick you up. I did not realize this until after I had struggled with my luggage up the very steep road to the entrance! Other less expensive hotels/pensioni are: HOTEL CA' D'ANDREAN in MANAROLA (tel. 011-39-187-920040); MARINA PICCOLA in the same town (tel. 011-39-187-9- 20103, fax 011-39-187-920966); PENSIONE SORRISO (tel. 011-39-187-812224) in VERNAZZA, which is the most picturesque of the five towns. A number of people have recommended staying in LEVANTO, a town just north of MONTEROSSO, which is also on the train line. WHERE TO EAT: Finding interesting restaurants or tra- ttorie in the CINQUE TERRE is easy, particularly if you like seafood. In VERNAZZA, the GAMBERO ROSSO (tel. 812-265), which many consider to be the best in the area, was in my opinion, very good, but expensive. In addition, the service was very slow, even by Italian standards (two hours passed before we were finally served). AL CASTELLO (tel. 812-296), which is nearby, is also listed as a fine restaurant, and it is less expensive. In MONTEROSSO, we tried several trattorie, our favorite being AL POZZO, where we ordered the menu del giorno. It was delicious and inexpensive. While in the region, be sure to try the fresh anchovies with lemon! IX. SICILY For the adventurous with a love of antiquity, SICILY is a wonderful destination! Unless you plan to spend all of your time safely tucked in a hotel in TAORMINA, however, this fascinating island is not for the faint of heart or those looking for a tranquil vacation. In order to see all that there is to see (and there is a lot!), you must be prepared for the traffic and trash that is part of every Sicilian city. About ninety percent of the population lives in the urban centers, and once you leave the cities, you are struck by the lack of people and cars. As you drive from the desert-like southern coast to the mountainous interior to the lush north coast to majestic MT. ETNA, you become aware of the diverse geography of the island. I offer here some opinions and ideas on places in SICILY not to miss, as well as places to avoid. Some of my ideas might be heretical to an Italian, but I believe that it is possible to see the island's main attractions without exhausting your spirit. It is a wonderful, fascinating place! WHEN TO GO: Not in July or August when the Italians and northern Europeans flock to the coasts and islands! The spring and fall are the best times to visit SICILY. The weather during my recent trip in June was perfect; however, there was a heat wave at the end of May with temperatures over 100 degrees. Be prepared for anything! HOW TO ARRIVE: The easiest way to get to SICILY is by air. The two international airports are PUNTA RAISI outside of PALERMO, and FONTANAROSSA, just south of CATANIA. Of the two airports, the latter is larger, more modern, and easier to access. From either airport it is easy to pick up a rental car. DRIVING IN SICILY: Driving in Sicilian cities is an exercise in courage and patience! Frankly, I would recommend staying out of the cities as much as possible. The system of autostrade that crisscross the island are excellent, and once you leave the outskirts of the main towns and cities, you will encounter very little traffic. WHERE TO STAY: Assuming that your adventurous spirit has brought you to SICILY in the first place, the best way to see the island is to rent at least two properties. That way, you can avoid the congestion of the cities, while enjoying the beauty of the countryside or coastline. On my recent trip to SICILY, I rented one villa on the south coast, midway between SYRACUSE and AGRIGENTO. It was a wonderful location for day trips to the many archeological sites in the area. For the second week, I rented a villa just outside of CEFALU, on the north coast. These two locations allowed me to see most of the island. ONE APPROACH TO THE ISLAND: I realize that there are many wonderful things to see in PALERMO and CATANIA, and other cities on the island. However, it is much more pleasant to concentrate on the sites that do not require a trip into the urban centers. Is this blasphemy? WHAT TO SEE FROM A SOUTHERN BASE: It is possible to visit the spectacular Valle dei Templi without driving into modern AGRIGENTO. The temples are not to be missed. It is also possible to see the old town of ORTYGIA, the citta vecchia (old city) of SYRACUSE without driving through the modern city. Unfortunately, to reach the archeological zone it is necessary to drive through a portion of the modern city, but it is manageable. The Graeco-Roman and Palaeo-Christian ruins are fascinating. The Baroque city of NOTO is near SYRACUSE, and it is worth a stop. Another nice town in the same area is RAGUSA IBLA, the old town of RAGUSA. You won't find many tourists in these two towns, but you will find charm and always good food! þ Further afield from AGRIGENTO are two other arch- eological sites with exceptional Greek ruins, SELINUNTE and SEGESTA. Also, just north of GELA (truly an ugly city, but with an important archeological museum) is PIAZZA AMERINA, where the Villa Romana del Casale is located about 4 Km south-west of town. The villa itself, as well as the spectacular mosaic floors will delight man, woman, and child. A very interesting and worthwhile side trip about twenty minutes from the Villa Romana are the Scavi di Mor- gantina (excavations of MORGANTINA), once a pre-Helle- nistic city, which was destroyed by the Romans. You won't find many tourists in this lovely spot, and there are lots of ruins to explore. TO SEE FROM A NORTHERN BASE: The charming fishing village/resort of CEFALU is a pleasant base for exploring a different part of SICILY. CEFALU is still a Sicilian town, contrasted with TAORMINA, which is solely a tourist resort. From here it is possible to take side trips to ENNA, MT. ETNA, TAORMINA, MONREALE, and even PALERMO (if you are so inclined). I don't mean to sound negative about TAORMINA, because it is a beautiful place, filled with luxury hotels, tastefully tucked away along picturesque winding streets or jutting out over the sea. The shops are filled with the ceramics of SICILY, and bougainvillea cascades down the steep hillsides. Its Greek Theatre has a spectacular setting above the town overlooking the sea. The passeggiata, where everyone in town fills the streets in the early evening to walk, talk, and be seen is a real occasion in TAORMINA. However, everyone in town is a tourist or connected with tourism, including the Italians. I personally prefer CEFALU as a base, because it is more Sicilian, less expensive, and more adventursome. GUIDEBOOK: I strongly recommend taking with you a guidebook exclusivly on the subject of SICILY, such as FROMMER'S TOURING GUIDE: SICILY. There is too much to see on the island to rely on a general guidebook on Italy for information. X. ROME NOTES SECRET WALKS: Walking tours of Rome, conducted in English, have been organized by a group of English and American scholars and artists who live in Rome. Some of the tours offered are titled: In the Footsteps of Caesar The Fall of the Roman Empire The Eternal Duel A Day in the Life of the Pope Harmony of All Contradictions Evening Stroll The Oldest Wine Bars Bike and Scooter Excursions Catacombs by Moped Walks for Connoisseurs They also schedule tours for the physically disabled. To contact the organization for information and reservations: Secret Walks Viale Medaglie d'Oro, 127 00136 Roma, Italy Tel: 011-39-6-39 728 728 Fax: 011-39-6-39 736 815 Monday to Friday 9:00 AM - 1:00 PM E-mail: t.rankin@agora.stm.it APPENDIX A: STORIES FROM FIRST-TIME RENTERS Our experience with renting homes in Italy began in 1986, with a glorious month-long trip, which was divided into three parts. We were two families, eleven in number, including five young teens and one set of grandparents. It was the perfect vacation! Our first week was spent in a charming little cottage in Fiesole. It was located on the grounds of a large and elegant estate, situated atop one of the hills overlooking the city of Florence. We were well-positioned for daily bus trips down the hill into the city. Ah, Florence! where we were enlightened and enchanted and rained upon and robbed by gypsies (which we endured none the worse for wear, and which provided us with great stories to tell back home!). Then on to Umbria! We rented a large van and a small car, giving us much flexibility for our comings and goings. Villa Tramonto was a noble old farmhouse on a rise of land thirteen kilometers south of Perugia. It was surrounded by rolling wheat fields that met the horizon, and fields of sunflowers in full bloom. There was the main house, a guest house, a pool, and tranquility. Every other day we took day trips into the quaint nearby hill towns, luxuriating, resting, reading, absorbing, swimming, and ping-ponging in between. On these rest days we would visit the local green grocer and feast in the comfort of our own villa. It seemed the perfect combination of sight- seeing and relaxing. We had ring-side seats for the incomparable sights and sounds of the Palio in Siena we bought pottery in Orvieto we took in a concert at the Festivale dei Due Mondi in Spoleto the towers of San Gimignano beckoned and Assisi and Perugia. For the final week we traveled south to Maratea, taking a side trip to the Greek ruins at Paestum en route. Our house faced the busy little port, and from the terrace we watched the fishing boats and yachts go in and out, and the vegetable and fish vendors selling their goods. The days spent on the secluded beaches reached by row boat were a peaceful ending to a trip none of us will forget. Almost eight years later, four of us (two couples) returned to Italy to rent another house. We had a lovely farmhouse in the Chianti region, midway between Florence and Siena. The farmhouse, recently restored with taste and style, had breathtaking views of vineyard-laden hills. One afternoon we spent an hour or so trying to capture the gol- den glow on camera as the sun set. Whereas our 1986 visit to Italy had been during the summer, our recent stay was during the fall, when the leaves had turned red and gold and the nights were chilly. Every evening we read and listened to music in front of the huge fireplace in the living room. During the day we carried umbrellas and raincoats as we toured the nearby hill towns. Often, on the way home from a day of sightseeing, we stopped at the little pizzeria a kilometer from our house for a pizza with porcini mushrooms. Or we fixed a simple pasta with fresh tomatoes and mozarella in our own kitchen. It was a very cozy week. Renting the houses has been inexpensive and has provided many opportunities for meeting people on a more personal level. Rather than moving from one hotel to another, packing and unpacking, our days were unhurried and companionable, and our memories varied and vivid. What a wonderful way to come to know a country! Some useful items to take with you when renting a house in a foreign country: a small radio/tape player and a few tapes; a string bag for trips to the green grocer; a small container of Woolite for hand washing; a few tea bags. But most of all, you should bring an open mind and an ad- venturous spirit! Sig and Cheryl rented three houses in 1986 and one in late 1993 We promised you a letter about our stay in Villa Evelina near Florence. All five of us had a wonderful time and would recommend it highly. The villa is on a hill between Florence and Fiesole, with a spectacular view of both. By car it is a ten minute drive into Florence. But you can also take the #7 city bus directly into the heart of the city. The bus stop is about one block away from the house. One accesses the property through a gate on the walled roadway leading from Florence to Fiesole into a garden with many old trees and fruit trees, extensive rose and herb gardens lovingly cared for by the owner, who lives in part of the house. The villa is a beautifully maintained eighteenth century country home with views of Florence from the garden and the upstairs windows. It was featured in the Italian and French House and Garden magazine. We enjoyed comfortable furnishings and tasteful decorating, very much in keeping with the style of the house. The spotless kitchen had new appliances, including a dishwasher, and a large refrigerator with a freezer. Our beds were very comfortable and there was sufficient wardrobe space for our clothes and clutter. We used the formal dining room for three dinners, one a delicious lasa- gna and tiramis£ prepared by the maid, to which we invited our delightful hostess and owner of the property. The owner was pleased to recommend trips and restaurants with directions for finding them. She speaks excellent English and made us feel very much at home. She even arranged to have the Herald Tribune delivered early each morning! Villa Evelina exceeded our expectations in every respect. It was a beautiful experience that we hope many other travelers to Florence will enjoy. Charles and Margaret rented in the spring of 1994 We loved our villa near Rome! What a wonderful place! The setting was just perfect: vast house, huge grounds, lovely pool, and only thirty minutes by subway from the heart of Rome. Our traveling companions have decided that this was a once-in-a-lifetime event; this was their first villa experience, and they couldn't believe it. The villa is located in a very peaceful setting, and we enjoyed returning there in the afternoon after a day in Rome or the countryside to take a refreshing swim in the pool. We felt very privileged. We enjoyed the countryside, Grottaferrata, Frascati, and the other Castelli Romani. There was so much to see and do that we all wished we were able to stay longer. Henry and Diane rented in the late spring of 1994 Renting an apartment on the island of Vulcano was an experience of a lifetime for all of us. The tourist complex, where the villa is located, is a beautiful secluded club high on a mountain overlooking the sea. The staff is very gracious and accommodating; they even loaned us a car during our stay, because the shuttle was not yet operating. There is also a magnificent pool available. The villa was clean, well-appointed, and very comfort- able. The best part was the large balcony, where we ate every meal. The property was private and spacious with beautiful grounds. The village is a wonderful spot, too, with many markets, produce stands, and a great cafe called Remigio. It is only a twenty minute boat ride to Lipari, where there is a magnificent museum and many shops and restaurants. Overall, it is a wonderful holiday spot, where one can find peace and tranquility among the awesome natural beauty of the usual pandemonium of the Italian social scene. Wonderful! Catherine rented in the late spring of 1994 We thoroughly enjoyed the property "Corallo"! The description in the brochure said that the house was 30 meters to the beach. Perhaps it is 30 meters to walk to the stairs to go down to the beach, but actually, it is just high enough off the beach not to have sand blowing onto the enormous terrace. It was just beautiful! The furnishings are adequate - rattan and plastic - whereas the building itself is spectacular - tall marble columns, marble floors, and right on the beach. The second property we rented was on the shore of Lake Massaciuccoli. It was a wonderful place! The villa is in the old world Italian style, with antique furnishings and a beautiful kind of refinement. It has a lovely view of the lake. The owners, Mr. and Mrs. Orlando, couldn't have been nicer or more gracious in thinking of our comfort. Their housekeeper even did some ironing and washing for us. Mr. Orlando is a flautist and travels internationally, and both he and his wife speak English. A real bonus was that the Puccini Festival was going on very nearby, and we were able to see three operas! Sally & Paul rented in August of 1995 APPENDIX B: EASY MENUS TO PREPARE Following are some simple menu suggestions to get you started. It has always been my practice to fix breakfasts and dinners at home and to eat in a ristorante or trattoria during the long lunch break in which ever town I happen to be. It's a nice way to get to know the town's flavor, so to speak! A useful book to have is Eating in Italy, by Faith Willinger, an American living in Florence. The book includes advice on where and when to shop, various regional food specialties, and other helpful hints (can be ordered from BOOK PASSAGE by phone: (800) 321-9785). þ Tortellini in brodo con petti di pollo (Broth with tor- tellini and chicken breasts); insalata mista (mixed salad); Tuscan bread; Parmigiano cheese. þ Salade Nicoise alla Italiana (traditional Nicoise salad, with an Italian twist: olives, green beans, potatoes, tuna, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, capers, etc with a dressing of balsamic vinegar and olive oil); Tuscan bread. þ Pasta with fresh tomato sauce and basil (either home-made or from a jar of salsa di pomodoro con basilico BARILLA brand); insalata mista; Parmigiano cheese; Tuscan bread. I recommend the delicious fresh pastas available in most markets. þ Pasta with porcini mushrooms and garlic (sometimes you can find porcini fresh; otherwise, use dried, or a BARILLA sauce with porcini); insalata mista; Parmigiano cheese; Tuscan bread. þ Pasta with pesto (you can always find a jar of pre-made pesto in the grocery stores); marinated veg- etable salad with balsamic dressing (zucchini, car- rots, cucumbers, tomatoes, fennel bulb); Tuscan bread. þ Pasta with sun-dried tomatoes in oil (easy to find in markets), olives, tuna, artichoke hearts, sliced roasted eggplant, etc. (all can be found in the deli section of the grocery store); insalata verde (green salad); Tuscan bread. þ Antipasti platter (salami, mortadella, and other lunch meats; selection of marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers and eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes in oil, mushrooms, cheeses); Tuscan bread. þ Zuppa di verdura (vegetables in broth); Parmigiano cheese; insalata mista; Tuscan bread. þ Minestrone (soup with vegetables, beans, and pasta very hearty); Parmigiano cheese; insalata verde; Tuscan bread. þ White bean salad with tuna, vegetables (toma- toes, cucumbers, roasted peppers, onions), and a balsamic/olive oil dressing; bread. þ Pasta primavera (pasta with lightly sauteed vegetables and garlic); insalata verde; bread. Another tasty cold variation is to add the vegetables to leftover pasta with pesto. A splash of balsamic vinegar adds zip. þ Pasta Capri (pasta with fresh tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, garlic, and basil). APPENDIX C: A SAMPLE SHOPPING LIST Based upon the previous menu suggestions made a- bove, I've prepared a sample shopping list. Also included are some basic items that you will need during your rental stay. Bottled water (con gas or naturale) Milk (look for boxed milk) Vinegar (balsamic or wine) Olive oil Salt, pepper, & spices Tea / Coffee Knorr Brodo (broth cubes) Pasta (include tortellini & fresh) Bottled sauces (BARILLA brand is good) Vegetables: potatoes, onions, green beans, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, lettuce, etc. Deli items: parmigiano cheese, olives, artichokes, roasted peppers and eggplant, lunch meats, fresh mozzarella, etc. Canned fagioli (beans) Canned tomatoes Canned tuna Capers Dried, canned, or fresh porcini Garlic Fresh basil Wine Cold cereal Yogurt (for breakfast) Eggs Fruit Jam Butter (if desired) Chicken breasts Dish soap Bar soap Toilet paper Paper towels Cleanser BREAD BE SURE TO BUY IT FRESH EVERY MORNING! APPENDIX D: NOTES ON ITALIAN REAL ESTATE Following is a simplified explanation of Italian real estate procedures gathered from several sources. For the most complete information I recommend the book Living in Italy, The Essential Guide for Property Purchasers and Residents, by Yve Menzies, published by Robert Hale Limited, London. And by all means, consult your attorney and accountant before engaging in any property purchase transaction! Procedures and Contracts: þ Before entering into a preliminary sale agreement the buyer must open a foreign currency account into which funds may be deposited only from outside of Italy. þ A Compromesso (preliminary sale agreement), which states the full sale price and the payment arrangements, is signed by the buyer and the seller. The buyer makes a down payment of 30% of the purchase price of the property. þ A Notaio (notary public) is engaged to draw up the Rogito (final sale contract). First he checks to make sure that the property is free from liens and encumbrances. Once the Rogito is signed the buyer consigns to the seller the balance of the payment. Except in particular cases, the Rogito usually records only 50% to 60% of the selling price, in order to minimize the taxes that the seller and buyer have to pay. The notary's fees (2% to 2 «%) are based upon this amount, rather than on the full sale price. Initial Costs, Land Registry, and Notary Fees: þ Initial costs and land registry costs are calculated on the amount listed on the Rogito. Apart from particular cases, urban properties are taxed at 10%; country houses with land are taxed at 10% on the declared value of the building and 17% on the declared value of the land. þ The notary fees are about 2.5% of the amount shown on the Rogito. Arranging a Mortgage: þ The usual mortgage obtainable through an Italian bank is up to 50% of the bank's appraisal of the property, at a rate of about 17% for a ten-year loan in Italian Lira. The mortgage is registered at the Ufficio del Registro (Mortgage Register), and for this you must pay a fee of about 15%. þ It is also possible (and probably less expensive in the long run) to arrange for a loan from an American bank to be transferred to an Italian bank (for a fee, of course). You must get a certificate from the Italian bank which states that the funds have been brought in from abroad. þ Loan payments are made twice a year, Taxes: þ The best advice I've gathered is to find a commercialista (a combination of accountant and lawyer) in Italy who specializes in international work. He or she will tell you what taxes you must pay and will be able to advise you in all aspects of taxes. ******************************************************************************** This is an ASCII version of the booklet that Suzanne provides all of her clients. The information is an accumulation of her personal notes made during her many trips (she goes at least once each year) during which she stays in various properties and visits the local area. She has also included a few pointers suggested by her many satisfied rental clients. This booklet is available for $7.50 in a handy pocket-size format by contacting her directly: RENTALS IN ITALY (& Elsewhere!) Suzanne T. Pidduck 1742 Calle Corva Camarillo, CA 93010 Voice (805) 987-5278 FAX (805) 482-7976 CIS 76413,713 ********************************************************************** END